Thursday, 1 January 2015

FP, Bora Bora (Dinghy recipe) 18-12-14

(Or 'What to do when your dinghy dies in the middle of the South Pacific, you can't afford to get a new one shipped over and to fix it you'd need to spend hundreds on glue that isn't even sold in this country').

(This one was written by Garth)

Materials


4 sheets of plywood (the more voids and the wind lier the funner)

Some big wood (the size of four of Garth's fingers together)

A whole heap of screws

Glue, something strong and waterproof that you don't have to mix

Lots of epoxy

A few metres of fiberglass

Some lengths of square batten, about the size of Garth's ... thumb

Drill

Screwdriver

Saw

Note: If you're actually interested in making one of these, we've written up instructions on how we should have done it with measurements and plans and such. We'll post them soon as a link from our home page


Day 0

We went for some happy hour wines by the marina pool.



"Our dinghy is broken. We can't afford a new one. Let's build one"

We had more wines and scribbled plans for three different boats. One of them was for a Waka Ama, which turned out to be too difficult. The other was for a cat, which would come apart at the middle to fit on deck. The third was a Puddle Duck Racer (all three designs would be sailboats).

We thought about it for a week. We redrew the plans a few times. Then we decided the Puddle Duck wouldn't be that hard...

"OK"


Day 1


We went down to the local Bora Bora hardware store. There were three different sized battens that might have suited us. 14mm, 17mm and 23mm. We got a piece out of the 17mm slot and took it to the counter.

"How much for this?"

"5900 a length"

For finger jointed batten, that wasn't too bad, I guess. Upon enquiring if they had plywood, we just got a a blank look. After a bit of miming, and "non non non", we managed to weasel out of them that there was a store that sells wood: "It's a green building just past the informerie. You won't be able to walk - is very far. Other side of island."

We wandered off to talk to our friends at the Information Centre, to see if they knew where we could hire a ute. They hadn't proven very useful before then. The girl at the counter repeated what the guy at the hardware store had said, that it was too far to walk. But she also said it was a five minute drive from there and they might deliver if we asked nicely.

Fifteen minutes down the road, but definitely still on the same side of the island, we found a little green shop. It looked vaguely like a generic "things" store, and was stacked to the ceiling with food, hardware, home equipment etc. No wood though. No sign of any either. We asked the nice older Asian gentleman behind the counter about where we could buy plywood, then tapped the bench to show him we wanted wood. He pointed to a hammer and other tools hanging over the doorway. "No, wood!" We caressed the wooden counter lovingly. His daughters boyfriend (there for a while from Tahiti) worked it out - "go outside and round the corner".

He caught up with us as we were about to go out onto the road, and led us down the side of that building to a locked gate/door. There was the plywood! Just out of reach. "He'll come soon". Soon could have been any amount of time, but 5 minutes later the old Asian man appeared on the inside of the door and let us in. Now the instructions we'd been getting all day started to make sense. Someone had used the term "commercial store" to tell us the name of the green building, which we have since learnt is the generic term for a "things" store around here.

After they helped us choose the best ply for boat building and we had paid, we asked if they knew how we could hire someone to get our ply back to the marina. By then it was probably a 40 minute walk away. The consensus seemed to be that there wasn't a way to do this, so we resolved to walk down the road carrying our plywood until someone took pity on us. Some kind of miscommunication must have taken place, because as we went outside there was a truck waiting out front with some guys in the cab all ready to take us. We hopped in the back with our purchases, then off we went down the road. They dropped us off right outside the marina gate and wouldn't take any fuel money "It's the Bora Bora way!"

We set up on the dock - the marina manager had been nice enough to let us use it "as long as you want". While I started measuring, I sent Neke off to grab "twelve 17 by 17 battens, and some epoxy from the chandlery." She came back with lunch and tarps, but no battens and no epoxy. It turns out she had bought the battens just as it started raining, so she sat with them undercover outside for 10 minutes before she realized they were all 14mm except for one lone 17mm. That was the one she had checked the size on. There were no more 17mm battens in the store so she had to come back to find out whether to get 23mm or 14mm. I wasn't confident in hitting 14mm wide battens through ply and not splitting them, so we went with 23. The chandlery had run out of epoxy.

Back she went, but in the meantime it had started raining again so I covered our supplies with the tarps and started planning in greater detail. She arrived back without anything - "forgot my wallet". The grumpiness factor was increasing with every trip, and this time, due to the torrential downpour, she was covered in mud that the cars had splashed all over her. I couldn't go instead, because she'd been the one dealing with the store people. So off she went again. In the rain.

By the end of the day I had marked out a couple of pieces, and Neke had walked back and forth all day long. At least we had our supplies!


Day 2


Day 2 was a day for cutting. The bottom of the puddle duck is curved, so this is the most involved bit to set up. There are four side panels, one inside and one outside each of the air boxes. To draw on the curve, we measured at particular places as specified on the plans and then bent our skinny batten around to go past all the marks. It broke. After several attempts we managed to do each half at once, and then clean up the curve at the bottom too. Clamp 4 pieces together, saw along the line, and hey, presto! Four equal side panels. Of course, our saw was rusty on the sides, so it kept binding. We had to borrow one from our friend Thierry, the dive shop guy. He lives on the boat at the end of the dock and was incredibly friendly and helpful the whole time we were there.


Marking up the curve





After cutting 4 jaggedy and uneven sides, a plane or even a belt sander would be very useful to tidy up the curve. No such luck, so we attached battens along the top, front and back of each panel and then tried to curve a batten along the curvy bottom edge. A couple of ominous creaks later and we decided to help it along with some "coffin cuts". These go on the inside of a curve of wood to allow some room for it to compress. We did one exactly every 100mm - so I wouldn't have to think when working out where to screw. Unfortunately this meant some were in the middle of finger joints, which promptly broke when bent. We screwed them on anyway - a bit of sanding and no one would ever know.


Coffin cuts



Oh. We also glued these on before screwing them. On the back of the glue it says "Wear gloves. May cause skin blackening." We didn't bother with the gloves...

Also, this was all done in between rain squalls.




Day 3


This was the only day of consistently good weather until the end.

After doing a bit of a hack job trying to get each panel roughly even with the others, and getting rid of any overlapping ply, we stuck the front and back on. Same as before, lots of screws, measuring twice and cutting three times, trying to make it square, flipping it over and over again.









Then, while Neke was out to get lunch, I temporarily stuck the bottom on! Under the assumption that it was reasonably square, I used it as a guide to line up all the spacers etc. Turned out alright in the end. I'd screwed up screwing the bow and stern on though, so it was a little narrower than designed. Oh well, what's a little more sanding to straighten things out?




Neke went back uptown twice more that day - the chandlery was closed due to this dengue like fever going around and the hardware store didn't have very good options. We ended up getting a very expensive epoxy glue to do the surface of the inside. It's just epoxy with filler. Should be fine, right?

In between trips to town, Neke helped me do the screwing together of all the panels. By the end of the day, if we'd chucked it in the water, it would've been able to float! For about a minute.





Day 4


It was raining all morning. Did you know tarps leak with standing water? I didn't. After tipping out all the water that had accumulated inside the boat, it was time to wait for the wood to dry. While waiting, we designed and started building the centreboard case.


I guess it's a good thing that the bottom doesn't leak even before being attached to the rest of the boat...



After realising that we should have epoxied the inside before gluing it together, we used an old toothbrush to try to coat the inside as much as possible.



It started raining again that evening, but we'd been clever and left the dinghy upside down so it wouldn't fill up again.






Day 5


After waiting for the bottom to dry a bit more, we started sanding away all of my previous mistakes. My outlook started getting more positive at this point - I know all about how to fill the gaps between things which were starting to appear - it was a solvable problem.







I think this was the day when I accidentally added a couple of unneeded holes to the bottom. Easy enough to fill later though. I also had a few unneeded holes in my fingers by this stage. In the tropics they take *ages* to fill themselves.


Adding blood to the blood, sweat and tears we put into it



We added the centreboard case supports, which ended up requiring the most thinking of any part of the boat, but once they and the foredeck were on the whole thing went from being more flexible than a contortionist to being pretty damn solid!





We also started sanding things ready for glassing and started putting sealant coats of epoxy on the things we'd managed to keep dry.




Day 6


We put filler in all of the gaps near the top and inside the boat. Then, we glued and screwed the side decks. It started drizzling, so we put things away and started on the rudder and centerboard. Then it started pouring. Another day waiting for the end of the rain.


Drilling out where the centreboard will go








Day 7


We spent most of the day waiting for the wood to dry. During that time we worked on shaping the centerboard.

Finally we could do the final sanding of the bottom and start putting epoxy on the bottom. We then realised that we wouldn't have enough to finish the glassing, so we went just about to the waterline on the sides. When it got dark, the bottom had tacked enough to start laying glass on. There are disadvantages to laying fibreglass in the dark. One of the things you have to do is ensure that all the cloth is wet, and that there are no bubbles underneath. When you can't see, it's easy to miss some spots. It also means you can't see a giant centipede running along the ground past your foot until you happen to shine the light down half a second before standing on it. We decided not to work in the dark again.


All ready for epoxy and fibreglass


Laying down the sheets of fibreglass cloth


Day 8


After it stopped raining, and when things were dry, it was time to put epoxy on the dry bits of glass and around the bottom edges one more time. I should have realised that wouldn't be the leaky bit.



When we launched that evening, we got a clap and cheer from the charterers tied to the dock. We got a small leak too - one of the screws hasn't got a good coat of epoxy yet.







Next time we find some epoxy, we'll glass the rest of the bottom and put some more layers on where appropriate, increasing the weight when dry, but decreasing it wet!





Garth





It's so big! This is our old dinghy on top of the new one

Monday, 22 December 2014

French Pol, Bora Bora (Dinghy dramas) 17-12-14

When we got back to Bora Bora from Maupiti I wrote a blog post about how average this 'tropical paradise' is compared to Maupiti. It's supposed to be everybody's ideal holiday location, one of the most talked up island destinations in the world. But after an uncomfortable day sailing back in chaotic seas, no protection from the sun and me with my head over the side every ten minutes, it felt like we were returning to a dirty, bustling city after a relaxing holiday. Which is kind of ridiculous considering it doesn't take long to drive around this whole island and there's only two supermarkets here. But after Maupiti it felt like going back to the city after a stay in the country.



We arrived at Mai Kai Marina in the afternoon and pulled up a mooring. I was feeling so ill that all I wanted was food, solid land and sleep. But we had no food, I was too hungry to sleep and the northerly winds were causing us to rock around relentlessly. Not fun.

It was definitely nice to be back near supermarkets and Internet but it just felt like another island. It's not as beautiful as the last one we saw, there's tourists everywhere and the roads turn into mud pits after it rains. And it always rains. It's just not as incredibly amazing as people make it out to be.

Rain...

I can't vouch for what goes on in the fancy hotels and over water villas - maybe they have activities lined up forever. But there isn't really anything to do here. The snorkelling is average at best, there's only one public beach, and there's no walks or hikes. Granted, we haven't explored over ground much. But the main town is small and touristy and there aren't really many locals to socialize with.




I still don't really understand what people do here as tourists. It's beautiful. It's really nice sitting around and taking in all the beauty. But how long can you relax for? I found myself craving the cheap, greasy burger place outside our anchorage in Rarotonga that was always a bustling hub of activity and excitement. I missed the crazy kids jumping off the dock and playing around our boat. And I missed the quiet women in Vanuatu washing their clothes in the stream. The kids swimming fully clothed in Tonga, begging us to join them. But there aren't really any locals here to socialise with. Mothers aren't swimming with their kids, there's no people bringing their produce to the markets, and nobody is interested in coming over and trying to chat like they are in Fiji. Everybody is friendly and they say hello with a smile. But they're all either working or just standing around, uninterested in trying to converse. It's a beautiful place but it's the locals that make beautiful places interesting and memorable. The locals here are friendly but they're not very interesting, which has become blatantly obvious after visiting Maupiti. I still blame the cruise ships. The locals are just exposed to wave after wave of tourists, so they're obviously not going to go out of their way to chat with us.


There's always a cruise ship. I guess it's the only way normal people can afford to come here, considering the price of accommodation



But over the last week we've been building a dinghy and my opinion of this place has completely changed. I guess people staying in the resorts only come to town a few times, because they have everything they need at their resort. There's a constant stream of tourists coming through but there's always new faces. After just living here, unconcerned with activities or sightseeing, it was different. I bought lunch from the same place every day - chicken and chip baguettes for $3.50 each. The girl at the counter became friendlier every day. People started to recognise me. The lady in the hardware store certainly saw me coming, and would ask all the customers if they spoke English as soon as I walked in, in case they could better help me find scrapers to apply epoxy with, or a tom thumb Robertson Screwdriver. Try saying that in French! (My best attempt was to mime screwing something in along with the word 'petite')

Not having a dinghy has made life hard. We've tried both kayaking and swimming, neither of which works very well for long distances or with kite gear and push bikes. We need a dinghy. So we had a few wines before we left for Maupiti and decided to just get some wood and build one. An idea that still seemed to be our best option in the light of day long after the effects of the wine had worn off. So we drew up plans. We researched. We drew up more plans. We discussed it endlessly, sometimes over more wine. We decided to make a wooden Waka Ama canoe, which was very complicated and not so clever in the light of day. And we finally decided on what we were going to do.

Our wine-fuelled plans with 3 different options. There could be only 1.


Our prototype...It was very scientific

Garth shows me how it will fly through the air. No more wine for him.

The locals saw me trudging back and forth along the road through the mud and rain. They saw me carrying a heavy load of wooden battens the wrong way, and together showed me how I should have them over my shoulder instead of under my arm. I went shopping nearly every day, dragging my ass the long way home with a bag of food in one hand and baguettes in the other. I guess tourists don't do that. Everyone became friendlier.



Teiva, who runs the Mai Kai Marina, was amazing. He let us work on his dock right in front of the restaurant. People would come out for pictures in front of the setting sun and we'd be sitting there in a pile of glue, covered in sawdust, wearing clothes that hadn't been washed in a week. We got up at 6 am every day and kept going until sunset. It was continually raining, so if we slept in through the only sunshine of the day we'd have kicked ourselves.


Fiberglassing in the dark

One evening we had collapsed on the outside couch to use the marina wifi. It was getting late and we were too tired and hungry to move. Teiva (who is also the chef there) sent us out a plate of tapas - warm bread, chicken mousse and patè, among other delicious things. We almost teared up we were so exhausted and grateful. Afterwards I took the plate back in and thanked him profusely, when he asked if we'd had enough. I laughed and said we couldn't keep eating his food... to which he responded by sending out another plate. We just couldn't believe how generous and nice he was (I should point out that we spent $50 for the mooring for the week and that was it. He was definitely losing money by having us there, considering how much we used the wifi and bummed up the place).




He also came down every day to see how we were going, offering advice and support. He even suggested a few things that made the boat a lot better, which was invaluable considering we had no idea what we were doing. Our original plan had been to knock together something dodgy on the beach that would last until we got a new one. Thanks to Teiva, our boat is beautiful and should last a long time.



There was also a really lovely guy living on a yacht there who worked at the dive shop by the marina. His name was Thierry. He walked past on our first day, saw our rusty saw and said 'non non, this is not good.' (Garth was off looking for WD40, because we had already discovered it was no good. It refused to cut through anything cleanly, and we had a lot of cutting to do). Thierry returned with a brand new saw from his own boat, and told me it would cut through like butter. It did. He kept fetching us things throughout the week, even loaning us a drill when our batteries died and we didn't have enough power onboard to charge them. When he found out we were looking for epoxy he didn't even try to explain, just got his keys and said 'come, come.' He loaded us into his car, drove us to his girlfriends house where he had boat things stored and dug through everything until he produced resin and fibreglass. It was the wrong type of resin, but we were just blown away by his generosity (I should mention that both Teiva and Thierry are French, so please ignore all stereotypes about arrogant French men. They obviously don't apply to everyone).



We were even given a ride into town when we bought all the wood, because the shop owner was also a lovely guy. I had to go back a few days later to get more, but Garth needed to keep working so I went alone this time. When the owner found out that I was going to try and carry home a giant piece of plywood, he went nuts. He started running around knocking on the neighbours doors trying to help me out. I couldn't believe how distressed this poor little Asian guy was at the thought of me dragging a sheet of plywood home. Eventually he sent his daughter and her boyfriend into town to do the grocery shopping, taking me and the wood along with them.


So much wood... This was before we bought more and after we started cutting it.

So we were just blown away by how nice everybody was being. Various charter boats tied up to the dock while we were there, offering us free beer, fresh fish and support. A local speedboat tied up there for a few days, island music blaring so loudly from their impressive speakers that they drowned out the chilled out tunes in the restaurant. One of the guys onboard was so impressed with our efforts that he insisted on shaking my epoxy covered hand. I tried to explain that I was sticky, but he just stood there with his hand outstretched, hell bent on showing his respect regardless.

So I'm not going to publish the original post I wrote. Theres a lot more to Bora Bora once you scratch through the surface. I still don't think there's much to do here as a tourist, but once you start living here its a wonderful place. It doesn't live up to all the hype. But it's beautiful and the people here have big hearts. I wouldn't come here to stay in a resort and I think anybody wanting to holiday in Bora Bora should charter a yacht with a group of friends. See the islands. Meet the people. Come back to the Mai Kai Marina in between, because this ex-resort really makes you feel like you're in paradise with it's infinity pool and happy hour by the water.



Xxx Monique